Stitching Help

Needles may be tiny, but they make a big difference in how your embroidery feels — like choosing the right brush for painting! Here’s how I like to think about it:

💡 Go by your thread and fabric.

The thicker your thread or fabric, the bigger the needle should be. For delicate stitches with one or two strands of thread, I usually reach for a size 7 or 8 embroidery needle. If I’m using all six strands or working on thicker fabric, I go for a size 5 or 6.

👁 Look at the eye.

Embroidery needles (also called crewel needles) have a slightly longer eye than regular sewing needles, which makes threading easier — and keeps your thread from fraying. I love them!

🌼 Try a few and find your favourite.

Everyone has their “needle soulmate” 😄 I always keep a little mix of sizes nearby and see which one feels right with the fabric and design.

🧺 Bonus tip from me:

Don’t stress too much about the “perfect” needle — if it glides through your fabric easily and your thread isn’t getting damaged, you’ve made a good choice! Trust your hands — they’re smarter than you think 💛

Choosing thread is like picking the mood of your embroidery — soft and dreamy? Bold and joyful? It’s all in the colour and texture!

🎨 Let the design lead the way.

If your pattern is soft and delicate (like wildflowers or tiny leaves), pastel or muted tones work beautifully.

For bold outlines or dramatic petals, brighter colours and stronger contrast will make your stitches pop.

🧶 How many strands?

Most embroidery floss comes in 6 strands — and you don’t need to use them all at once!

For fine details, I like to use 1–2 strands. For fuller petals or filling areas, I go for 3–4. Don’t be afraid to experiment — there’s no “wrong” way if you like the look!

🌿 Cotton, silk, or wool?

Cotton floss (like DMC) is smooth, soft, and perfect for most designs.

Silk adds a bit of shine and elegance — I save it for something special!

Wool thread has a beautiful texture, especially for nature-inspired or folk-style designs.

🌈 Bonus tip:

Keep your thread in a little rainbow order if you can — it makes choosing colours a joyful moment all by itself 💛

Your hoop is like the frame for your tiny work of art — it keeps your fabric smooth and steady, so your stitches stay clean and happy!

🪵 Wood or plastic?

I personally love a good wooden hoop. It feels traditional, natural, and looks beautiful — especially for displaying finished pieces!

Plastic hoops can be great too, especially the ones with a soft inner grip. They hold the fabric tightly and don’t slip as easily.

📏 What size should I use?

I usually say: pick a hoop that’s just a little bigger than your design. That way you can move your hand freely, but you won’t waste too much fabric.

For small details, I use a 4–6 inch hoop. For larger floral designs (like my wildflower tote bag!), 7–8 inches is perfect.

🎀 Top tip from me:

If your fabric slips, you can wrap the inner hoop with bias tape or a strip of cotton. It adds grip and protects delicate fabric — a little extra love for your stitches 💛

✨ Bonus  tip:

Don't leave your fabric in the hoop for too long after stitching — especially if it’s tight! Gently remove it when you're done for the day to avoid hoop marks.

Kata’s Tips: How to Transfer Your Embroidery Pattern to Fabric

✂️🧵 Perfect for hand embroidery beginners and beyond!

So, you’ve found the perfect embroidery pattern — now what? Before you pick up your needle, you need to transfer your design onto your fabric. There are several ways to do this, depending on your materials, the type of fabric, and your personal preference.

Here are my favourite methods for transferring hand embroidery patterns:

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🌞 1. Using a Lightbox or Window

Simple and effective!

Tape your pattern onto a lightbox or bright window, place your fabric on top, and trace the design with a fine fabric pen or pencil. This works best with light-coloured, thinner fabrics like cotton or linen.

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🌈 2. Iron-on Transfer Pens or Pencils

Great for reusable patterns.

Trace your design onto tracing paper using a heat-transfer pen or pencil (make sure the image is mirrored!). Place the tracing face-down on your fabric and iron it gently. The lines will transfer onto the fabric — ready to stitch!

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🌿 3. Transfer (Carbon) Paper

Ideal for darker fabrics.

Place the carbon paper between your pattern and the fabric, then trace over the design with a pen. This method can work on light or dark fabric — just choose the right colour of transfer paper.

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🧼 4. Water-Soluble Pens or Pencils

Perfect for delicate or detailed patterns.

Draw directly on the fabric using a washable pen or chalk pencil. Once your stitching is done, a gentle dab with water will remove the lines completely. Always test first on a scrap piece!

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💙 5. Sticky Fabri-Solvy or Water-Soluble Stabiliser

Mess-free and precise.

Print your pattern onto the stabiliser sheet, stick it directly to your fabric, and stitch through it. When you're done, soak your piece in warm water to dissolve the stabiliser. It’s a game-changer for intricate designs!

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✨ Kata’s Extra Tip:

Whichever method you choose, always test first — especially if you're using a new pen or fabric. And don’t worry if your lines aren’t perfect — your stitches will bring the magic to life! 🌸🪡